Rolex FAQ's

[Suhail]

Originally Posted by Ayjay

Very FAQs:

Is this Rolex on eBay fake?

Proceed with caution on all Rolex auctions on eBay or other auction sites. Positive feedbacks on other Rolex sales are a good sign. Ask lots of questions of the seller. Remember that photos in the auction might not be of the actual watch. Caveat Emptor applies. Many people post the auction on the forum and ask for opinions on the auction, and many of the regular members enjoy this fun sport.

General rule of the thumb is; If the seller states that it's from an "Estate Sale" or similar, or was given it as a gift, or pretends they don't know much about it, or is a zero-rated seller....then forget it.

How can I tell my Rolex is real?

Members of the forum are familiar with Rolexes and can generally identify a fake Rolex from good, detailed photos--so post some and ask for opinions. Of course, this appraisal is worth what you paid for it--nothing. The only sure-fire way is to take it to a Rolex service centre or specialist and have them examine it and give you an appraisal. Next, taking it to a Rolex authorised dealer and have them give it the once over. If they remove the caseback and examine the movement they will be able to tell at a glance if it is a genuine Rolex movement (no other movements are laid out in the same way). From a casual external examination, some expensive fakes may fool some of the people some of the time. Most Chinatown fakes fool nobody. If you're buying a Rolex and you want zero risk, buy it new from an authorised Rolex dealer. Anything else has some degree of risk. As the old saying goes; "buy the seller, not the watch"

Any question with the word "Hologram"

You can remove it or leave it on. Removing it may or may not decrease its resale value. Leaving it on may or may not cause pitting on the caseback. There is no right answer about the hologram, and no particular course of action seems to have major consequences. Do as you wish.

Where are the model and serial numbers engraved?

The Model number is engraved between the lugs at 12 o'clock. You must remove the bracelet to see it.
The Serial number is engraved between the lugs at 6 o'clock. You must remove the bracelet to see it. Newer models with the Rolex-engraved rehaut also have the serial number engraved at 6'o'clock.
The numbers printed on bracelets and end links are part numbers, not serial numbers.

What Rolex did I see in that movie or TV show?

Here are some pages that list movie watch spottings:
http://members.optushome.com.au/heliosz/movielist.html
http://members.optushome.com.au/heliosz/rolexmovies.html

What should I buy?

This FAQ has no opinion. The consensus on the forum is that you buy either 1) the watch that "smiles" at you when you put it on, or 2) the exact watch that the other forum member wants you to wear.

Are Rolex bracelets bad?

Rolex pioneered metal bracelets on gentleman's watches and their style has changed little since the mid-twentieth century. Some changes include shifting from hollow riveted metal bracelets to solid bracelets, introduction of the Jubilee style, and the recent introduction of the solid end-links (SEL). The common criticism is that other watches have moved to more modern deployant style clasps with hidden mechanisms and use forged or machined parts rather than the stamped parts used in Rolex closures. The Rolex clasp is quite strong--certainly as strong as most other clasp mechanisms. One advantage of the Rolex clasp over hidden deployant closures is that it is easily adjusted and in smaller increments--most deployant closures can only be sized by inserting or removing entire links, whereas a Rolex clasp can be adjusted by moving the inside link in or out through the holes.

My Rolex rattles!

It's probably the bracelet. Try removing the bracelet and see if it still rattles. Non-SEL bracelets are notorious for rattling. Some members of the Rolex forum have bent the "wings" on the bottom of the end-link up a bit to reduce the gap between the end-link and the watch head.

What is SEL?

Solid End-Links (SEL) are the end-links of the bracelet where it meets up with the watch head. Before the late 1990s, they were folded metal with small wings on the underside to keep them lined up. The SEL ones are a solid hunk of machined metal. It should be obvious from this description which is which in person.

How often should I service my Rolex?

Two schools of thought: Rolex and many experts recommend every five years for a modern one or more frequently for a vintage one--proper service keeps it running smoothly and a dry, grimy watch can wear and damage parts making for a more expensive repair. On the other hand, a minority of experts say that periodic maintenance service is not required. Just fix it when it breaks or loses its accuracy. They refer to their thirty-year old watches that are within COSC specs.

[Suhail]

Will US customs seize my Rolex?

Here is what the US Customs Service says as of Jan 2003:
"The Rolex trademark recordation with Customs indicates "Import of Goods Bearing Genuine Trademarks or Trade Names Restricted." This means that genuine Rolex products can only be imported with the permission of the trademark owner, Rolex Watch U.S.A. Inc. A private individual can hand carry one Rolex watch from a trip overseas without obtaining permission. Bring in more than one, and they will all be seized as a trademark violation. Purchasing a Rolex from overseas by mail is also a trademark violation."

What are Tudor watches?

Tudor is a brand owned by Rolex. They use Rolex Oyster cases but not Rolex movements and are priced lower down the scale.

What does T Swiss Made T mean? What does Swiss Made T<25 mean? What is Tritium?

The "T" means that the watch uses tritium as a luminous material.
Tritium is mildly radioactive and will cause the luminous material to constantly glow for many years. Tritium's half-life is 12.5 years. The radioactivity is not harmful if the watch is not damaged, and even then only extensive exposure is risky (such as the people that painted the dials, and watchmakers). The "T" is marked on the dial as tritium is restricted in some closed environments (such as submarines).

T Swiss Made T is the oldest tritium markings on the dial. Rolex reduced the amount of radioactive material to below 25 millicuries, and those watches are marked Swiss Made T<25.

Watches marked either Swiss or Swiss Made use Luminova--which is not radioactive. It must be recharged by a bright light and will glow for several hours. During the transition from tritium to Luminova Rolex used some dials marked T<25 and simply applied Luminova.

Is this watch too big/small for me?

This FAQ has no opinion on any particular watch. However, current fashion dictates that a mans sports watch should be not less than 40mm, like the Submariner, and a gents dress watch should be around 35-38mm, like a DateJust. Women's watch fashion has greater variability in styles.

Why are Rolexes so expensive?

Short answer: Rolex sells every watch they make. There is no reason to reduce the price if that's what the market will bear. Nobody was ever forced to buy a Rolex, so if you want one, buy one, if you don't, don't. The implicit question here is are they a good value in comparison to other fine watches, and this FAQ will not enter the debate of brand, horological refinement, and so forth.

Why are the Stainless Steel (SS) Daytona's so expensive?

The SS Daytona's are extremely popular. Dealers frequently have wait lists, premiums over list price, or both. The stainless steel model is selling for more than the two-tone (TT) stainless & gold model. This FAQ will not speculate as to why they are so popular.

Why is the Rolex website so vague? Why isn't my watch on the Rolex website?

There are two possible reasons. One is that they want to encourage buyers to go to a dealer and hold a real one in their hands, so they are deliberately skimpy on details. The other is that Rolex sells every watch they make, so why bother improving the website. Rolex, of course, can be found at http://www.rolex.com/

What is the difference between the DateJust and the Date?

Size. The DateJust is 36mm (and 41mm) and the Date 34mm, not including crown. The Date only comes with the Oyster bracelet, whereas the DateJust can have either the Oyster or Jubilee bracelet. The DateJust is more expensive. They both use the same movements.

The coronet on my crown doesn't line-up.

Relax. That is normal. Do not try to force it.

Ohmygod! I scratched the case! Can I buff it out?

Yes, but don't unless you know what you are doing. Many people recommend waiting until you have the watch serviced. When the watch is serviced by either Rolex or a competent watchmaker, they will polish the case and bracelet and it will come back looking like new. I mean, just like new.

How can I polish scratches out of my acrylic crystal?

PolyWatch is a compound specifically designed for removing scratches from acrylic crystals. Others have used Brasso or toothpaste. Of course, use at your own risk.

Should the caseback have anything engraved on it?

No. The exceptions are the Sea-Dweller, Milgauss, Sea-Dweller Deep Sea, some ladies models, and most Tudor watches. Some, such as COMEX Submariners do, but if you're looking at a COMEX Sub then you probably don't need to read the FAQ.

Are there Rolexes with display-backs (aka "exhibition backs")? Can I have one made?

There are only two known Rolexes in existence with exhibition backs. If you see a Rolex with a display back, it is almost certainly a fake.
It is possible to have a watchmaker machine a display back for your Rolex, but the consensus is that it is a bad idea. The objections are that it would damage the water resistance, most would believe it to be fake, and Rolex movements are not highly decorated and thus not that much to look at. That said, it's your watch, do what you will.

How should I clean my Rolex?

If you have an Oyster, you can wash it in warm water with a mild detergent and a soft toothbrush. Be sure the watch is water resistant before doing this (i.e. it has been serviced in a reasonable time-frame, the crown is screwed in, etc). Rinse it off in clean water. Of course, do not do this if you have a Cellini or other non-water resistant watch.

What's with the laser-etched cornet that's on some crystals?

Rolex began etching a tiny coronet on sapphire crystals in 2002. It is at the 6 o'clock position and requires either a 10x loupe or really good eyes and must be angled under a good light to see it. It is another anti-counterfeiting measure. Not all watches have it, and they are (like all changes) introducing it across the line slowly. Coronets with the letter "S" in the bottom of it indicates that the crystal is a service replacement. The general consensus on the forum is that it is 1) cool and 2) not that important for collectibility or resale value.

Can I swap out the Acrylic crystal for a Sapphire one?

No. The cases are different. It might be possible to get an aftermarket Sapphire that will fit, but it could affect the water resistance of the watch, and Rolex will no longer service the watch. A common suggestion is that if you have a watch with an acrylic crystal and want a sapphire one instead, trade it.

What type of Stainless Steel does Rolex use?

Most watch manufacturers use stainless steel 1.4435 or 316L. Rolex uses stainless steel 1.4439 or 904L which is slightly different from 1.4435. Steel 904L and 316L have the same grade of hardness. The level of nickel discharge with 904L is slightly higher, causing an increased chance of allergic reaction when worn by people sensitive to nickel. While technically 904L is more corrosion resistant, this is typically a concern in industrial applications using steel in equipment for handling chlorides, sulphur dioxide gas or other toxic materials. Almost no watch manufacturers except Rolex consider it worth using the 904L steel, especially given that the price for 904L is approximately three times that of 316L.

[Suhail]

What are the different types of bracelets and clasps, such as Jubilee, Oyster, Oysterlock, Oyster Fliplock, and President?

Oyster:
A basic deployant clasp that clips into place with some pressure.

OysterLock:
Same as the Oyster above, but with another brace that clips over the clasp to provide more security. To release it, you need to flip the brace and then flip open the rest of the clasp to the right.

FlipLock:
Same as the OysterLock but with the addition of the diver's extension. The Fliplock is a longer clasp in order to hold the extension.

President
The "President" bracelet is named the honor of Dwight D. Eisenhower who wore one of the first of that bracelet in 1956 when it was introduced. Rolex had given DDE (Winston Churchill as well) an 18KT DateJust in 1946 to celebrate winning WWII. When it was returned for an overhaul in '56 the new bracelet was fitted and that's why the bracelet is called the President. The Day-Date is frequently referred to as the "President", but technically the name refers to the bracelet. Ike's watch was actually a DateJust!

How do I open the diver's extension in the Oyster bracelet?

The divers extension is on the Oyster Fliplock bracelet. It is an extra folded link that can be deployed to increase the size of the bracelet to fit over a wet suit by simply pulling it free from the inside of the clasp. The Submariner and Sea-Dweller come with the Oyster Fliplock bracelet. If you can't figure it out, visit your local Rolex dealer for help.

On the SEL bracelet
There is a small O-shaped button on the link near the clasp. Press it and that will release the extension.

On the non-SEL bracelet
Pull the bracelet up wards, away from clasp until it's released. It will require some force the first few times, but tends to become easier when you've done it a couple of times.

What is the Gas (or Helium) Escape Valve on the Sea-Dweller for?

Note: I am not a diver, so I don't know anything about this. In saturation diving divers are kept at extreme pressure for extended periods of time. This allows the divers to spend more time working at great depths without having to go through decompression between dives. The high pressure gas (frequently mixed with Helium) will naturally seep into the watch as the crown is unscrewed and due to the small size of helium molecules. When decompressing, the high pressure inside a watch can cause its crystal to pop off, as the watch was designed to take external pressure, not internal pressure. The Sea-Dweller has a spring-loaded valve on the side of the case that will automatically open if internal pressure is considerably higher than external pressure.

What does "Perpetual" mean?

"Perpetual" is Rolex's way of saying the watch is automatic or self-winding. Perpetual watches have a rotor attached to the movement that rotates as you move your hand, and that rotor is geared down and winds the mainspring.

What are the different movements used in Rolex watches?

Hannes has a list of movements and the watches they were found in on his website, http://www.oysterworld.de/caliber.htm

The second hand ticking isn't smooth. It looks like it does about five a second. Is it fake?

No. The rule-of-thumb that Rolexes have smooth second hands means that it doesn't tick once a second like a quartz movement. A Rolex actually ticks 5 or 8 times a second, depending on the movement. Also, the OysterQuartz ticks once a second, as it uses a quartz movement and the rare Rolex Tru-Beat from the early 1960s had a mechanical movement that ticked once a second.

My watch is running X seconds fast/slow per day. Is this bad?

COSC certification is for an accuracy of -4 to +6 seconds per day. That is very good accuracy for a mechanical watch. If it is considerably outside of that, consider having the watch serviced.

Does a new Rolex speed up or slow down as it breaks in?

Yes. A new watch will vary slightly as the parts wear to mesh better, and oil becomes distributed differently.

My watch is a bit fast/slow per day. What can I do?

You have two options:

Different overnight positions affect accuracy:
If it runs slow during the day; lay it flat with the dial up as this gains a few seconds during the night.

If it runs fast during the day; lay it in a vertical position with the crown down and it will lose a few seconds in the night.

Have your watch regulated:
Rolex or a Rolex knowledgeable watchmaker can adjust a Rolex using a combination of a timing machine and information you supply about how fast or slow the watch runs. Rolexes have adjustable mass balances--they have small weights that are either screws on the outside or nuts (Microstella) on the inside that can be adjusted to move the mass of the balance in or out to adjust the speed of oscillation. This is considered superior to the regulators used on other watches as it does not introduce beat errors (i.e. when the tick is longer that the tock).

My watch is running several minutes fast/slow per day. Is this bad?

It could be good news or bad news.

Good news:
The watch could have become magnetised. This causes the hairspring to magnetically cling to itself, so it acts like it's considerably shorter. This makes the watch run very fast. This can be fixed quickly and cheaply by any competent watchmaker without opening the case.

Bad news:
The watch needs service. It could be something relatively simple like the hairspring has become tangled up--I've heard of this happening to mechanical watches while clapping. Or it could be that the oil has dried up and the movement needs a cleaning and service. Or something worse. Get it serviced.

Should I wind my watch? How do I wind my watch?

If you wear your perpetual (automatic) watch, the motion of the rotor will keep it wound. If the watch is rundown you should wind it before wearing.
To wind your watch, unscrew the crown and advance the crown clockwise to wind. About 40 winds of the crown should wind the watch fully. If you have a perpetual watch, you can not over wind the watch. When it is fully wound, the mainspring will slip inside the barrel as it does when the watch is being wound by wrist action. It is likely you will not be able to tell the watch is fully wound.

Twisting the crown counterclockwise will not wind the watch but neither will it damage the movement. There is some discussion about whether winding a watch frequently will prematurely wear the crown and tube and there are two differing opinions. Some say that the watch is designed to be unscrewed and wound every day and that it will certainly last the five year service interval. Others say that it will wear prematurely. You choose.

How long is the power reserve?

From fully wound, around 44 hours. The Daytona has a power reserve of around 70 hours.

How do I pull out the crown to wind or set the watch?

Rolex Oyster crowns screw onto a tube for water resistance. Unscrew the crown counter clockwise until it comes free of the threads and then pull it out. Don't feel stupid--this is actually a common question.

The date switches over 5 ½ minutes after midnight. Is this a problem?

No. If it is more than an hour off of midnight, have Rolex or any other competent watchmaker adjust it for you. If you post this question on the forum, members will point out that if you're staring at your watch in the middle of the night to see when the date flips over, you may have the problem.

What is COSC certification? What Rolexes have it?

Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronometers (COSC) is the Swiss centre that tests watch movements. The chronometer specifications are -4 to +6 seconds per day under a variety of temperatures and positions (orientations) for large mechanical wristwatches. COSC also has a test for quartz movements, but it is stricter and less common. In 2001 Rolex certified 761,601 movements (gents and ladies), 573 were OysterQuartz. The movements are tested partially assembled (auto mechanisms, date mechanisms and the like are not installed) and before the movement is installed in the case. After final assembly, Rolex retests the watch.

[Suhail]

Should I use a winder?

A winder is a watch holder with a motor that rotates the watch so as to keep an automatic watch fully wound. Those with large collections frequently use winders to keep some watches that they occasionally wear wound, running, and set. This is helpful for watches with many complications like perpetual calendars, moon phases and the like, as resetting them for occasional wear is difficult. Rolexes typically do not have as many complications. The pros are that it keeps the watch running and the oils distributed. The cons are that it may increase wear on the movement.

How should I store a watch I'm not going to wear?

It is generally recommended that you wind your watch every few months to keep the oils distributed. It is generally recommended that you have the watch serviced after an extended idle period of several years. Other than that, just store it at room temperature in a dry environment..

What is shock protection? What is KIF?

"Shock protection" means that the balance staff jewels are held in settings with springs that allow them to give under force. Without this "give", the balance staff or jewels could be damaged easily by jars or bumps.
This website has an animation of how Incabloc-brand shock protection works: http://www.clock-watch.de/index.html?html/tec/sto/inc.htm
KIF Parechoc SA ( http://www.kif-parechoc.ch/ ) is the brand used by Rolex.

What is a "Sweep Seconds Hand"?

A sweep second hand is one that is mounted in the centre of the dial and sweeps over the entire face. This is in contrast to a "seconds sub-dial" that is typically at 6 o'clock (AKA "6-eater"). A sweep second hand can be on a quartz or mechanical movement--it does not say anything about whether it ticks once a second or more smoothly.

Can I (blank) with my Rolex?

The Oyster Rolex is a rugged watch (Cellini dress watches are not designed to be as tough). It is able to handle normal, extreme activity. Of course, use your own discretion--we are not responsible if you do something this FAQ says you can, and it harms the watch. Do anything at your own risk. If you have any questions about what your watch can handle, I recommend calling your local Rolex service centre and asking them.

Can I wear my Submariner or Sea-Dweller diving?

Yes. That is what they were designed for. Of course, do not exceed the depth rating (and if you do you will probably die anyway). If the watch has not been serviced recently, having it pressure tested is a good idea as the seals are only good for around five years. Of course, do this (and anything else) at your own risk.

Can I wear it in the hot tub?

Yes
A call placed to the Rolex service centre said it's no problem. Many forum members (who all appear to have much more fun than I do) say they do it all the time with no problem. If the watch was designed to take hundreds of meters of pressure it should be able to handle a few feet of bubbly warm water. Some say that a hot tub alone is not a problem, but don't jump straight into a cold pool.

Can I wear it on my Harley?

Yes. The movement is rugged. One forum member fell off his motorcycle and his Sea-Dweller looked several millimetres thinner by the time he stopped. Fortunately he was fine. The watch, while scratched beyond recognition, still ran but would need a new case, bezel, and bracelet.

Can I wear it in the shower?

Provided your Rolex is designed to be water resistant, has been pressure tested, and the crown is screwed in, there is no problem wearing it in the shower. Some forum members recommend it as it keeps the watch clean. Others discourage it as the soap causes the watch and bracelet to become scummy.

Can I wear my Rolex while golfing?

Yes. The maintainer of this FAQ presumed that a Rolex was required while golfing.

How often should I service my watch?

The recommended schedule is every five (5) years. Some people only have service done when the watch acts up. Some say they have gone 20 years without service. This is in general not recommended as it could increase the cost of a repair bill; instead of a cleaning, oiling, and adjustment it could also involve replacing worn parts.

Should I send it to Rolex or have my watchmaker work on it?

If the watch is under warranty it should be sent to Rolex for repair. You can either send it through an authorised dealer or directly to Rolex. One of the advantages of owning a Rolex is their world-wide, high-quality service organisation. Check the website and call the service centre for instructions before shipping. The advantages of the official Rolex service centres are that they have access to original parts and can restore a watch to like-new condition. Also, Rolex will not work on watches that have after-market parts installed. They will remove these parts and replace them with original Rolex parts and charge you for the parts and labour. So, by using Rolex service centres you ensure that they will service your watch in the future. The down side to the official service centres are that they are more expensive than private watchmakers, have longer waits (months, instead of weeks), and may not wish to work on older vintage models (for example, they will not clean up a vintage dial, but replace with either old-stock or a new dial that fits--bad for the red Sub owner etc).

Where are the Service Centres?

Surf over to http://www.rolex.com/hq/fich_service.html and the list is there.

Can my independent watchmaker get Rolex parts?

United States of America;
Usually no. Rolex tightly controls distribution of their parts. Some watchmakers are still able to order from Rolex, but it is uncommon. Aftermarket Rolex replacement parts are widely available. However, Rolex will not service a watch with aftermarket parts (or they will replace them with Rolex parts and charge you for the new parts).

Outside the USA, yes.

Can I keep my old parts during a Rolex service?

Not at a Rolex Service Centre.

What is a re-dial? Should I have it done?

A Redial is when an old dial is stripped of applied markers and paint, cleaned, and has new paint and text printed on. If your old dial is damaged (by water, for example) a redial can restore it. Redials frequently can be spotted by experts as the printing isn't exactly it came from Rolex. If your dial is aged, but not new looking, it is recommended that you do not get a redial, as it will reduce the value of a vintage watch--all original but aged is preferred by collectors to new-looking but redone. Of course, if you are not planning on reselling the watch and want a new looking dial, a redial may be for you. General advice is not to skimp--a cheap redial can look terrible.

You can also have Rolex swap out your old dial and/or hands for new ones. This will make your watch look, of course, like new. For vintage collectors, this can be bad. Note: they will usually keep the old ones.

What is a re-lume?

If a watch has tritium luminous markers, they will stop glowing after several years. Some watchmakers will remove the old tritium and replace it with Luminova (or other luminous material). As with re-dials, cheap re-lumes can look terrible.

Are Rolexes good investments?

No. The stock market, bonds, and other traditional investments usually do much better than watches. However, unlike stocks, you can wear your Rolex when you go windsurfing.

Why do Rolexes retain their value better than other watches?
There are seem to be two common, speculative reasons. Firstly the brand is widely recognised and coveted--this creates a large market for used watches. Secondly Rolex changes the design of watches so slowly and gradually that older model watches are not "out of fashion".

What is a Red Submariner?

For a relatively short time, Rolex printed the word Submariner in red on dials. Aside from the printing, there is nothing different about these watches, but as they are rare, they are collectible. There is also a Red Sea-Dweller. For more information, see http://www.redwatches.com/

What is a COMEX Submariner?

COMEX is a diving company. They had customised Rolex Submariners and Sea-Dwellers made for them with their logo on the front and engraving on the back. They are rare and quite collectible.

What is a Milgauss?

The Milgauss was designed to withstand high magnetic fields. Mechanical watches can become magnetised, affecting their operation (see "my watch is running fast"). It was not popular and few were made. As a watch, it's nothing special, but it's rarity makes it very collectible.

[cms_45]

You wrote-

My watch is a bit fast/slow per day. What can I do?

You have two options:

Different overnight positions affect accuracy
If you leave your watch dial up, that will typically cause your watch to gain a second or a couple overnight. 12 o'clock down will cause it to loose a second or two. WHAT DOES THIS MEAN?

Have your watch regulated
Rolex or a Rolex knowledgeable watchmaker can adjust a Rolex using a combination of a timing machine and information you supply about how fast or slow the watch runs. Rolexes have adjustable mass balances--they have small weights that are either screws on the outside or nuts (Microstella) on the inside that can be adjusted to move the mass of the balance in or out to adjust the speed of oscillation. This is considered superior to the regulators used on other watches as it does not introduce beat errors (i.e. when the tick is longer that the tock).

[harb]

Well spotted cms.
That should read:

If it runs slow during the day; lay it flat with the dial up as this gains a few seconds during the night.

If it runs fast during the day; lay it in a vertical position with the crown down and it will lose a few seconds in the night.

I'll edit the text.